CE662. Coastal Engineering (ects: 3)

The basic target of this module is the understanding of the physics under the sediment transport in the coastal area and the ability to design efficient shore protection structures.

Introduction to Coastal Engineering. Near-shore wave-induced mechanisms. Introduction to spectral and stochastic gravity waves. Wave breaking. Tidal, wind and wave induced currents.
Sediments, sampling, statistical parameters. Shear stress at the bed due to currents and/or due to waves. Calculations for horizontal and non-horizontal bed taking into account the bed roughness. Sediment movement, Commencement of movement. 
Volume of sediment transport calculation in the near-shore area. Sediment transport both along and across the shoreline. Sediment flux. Effect of near-shore structures in beach erosion. 
Introduction to shore protection structures. Environmental effects. Way of thinking as a designer. Nourishment vs. Structures. Material Choice. Structures parallel and vertical to the coastline.